Lounging in the Shuswap

At the end of my Rocky Mountain road trip (see previous post) I arrived at Mara Lake in the Shuswap to spend some time relaxing in the sun. What better place than at a cabin (cottage for you Easterners) at Mara Lake which is surrounded by mountains and where the weather is almost always perfect.

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I have been coming to this area for years and it never disappoints. This year has been a particularly fabulous summer all over Western Canada and the Shuswap was the same. Clear blue skies and sunny hot weather are the norm in the summer in the Shuswap and this year was no exception (my coldest day while I was there was 27 degrees). An ideal place to go within a beautiful half day drive from Calgary. I started out with dinner at Moose Mulligans where there is a great patio looking out over the Sicamous narrows. There is a dock if you would rather boat over than drive. It is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening with food and drinks enjoying the nice weather and watching the boats go by.

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This beautiful area has so much to offer. From Mara Lake by car there are easy day trips to Salmon Arm, Enderby, Vernon, Kelowna and to the many wineries in the area. By boat the entire Shuswap is available to explore through the many lakes which are all accessible by heading through the narrows in Sicamous. Whether you go by boat or car, the beauty of the area is apparent everywhere you look. I went to Vernon one day for lunch and the drive itself was worth the trip. Vernon is great too as it has lakes, wineries, a ski hill (good for hikes in the summer) and lots of restaurants to choose from.

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I also spent some time in Salmon Arm. One of my favourite things to do there is to have lunch at the Shuswap Pie Company. Warning, they are closed on Sundays so plan accordingly. The meat pies and the dessert pies are both amazing! My personal favourite is the raspberry rhubarb pie, absolutely delicious.  My second favourite thing to do there is to go to DeMille’s farmers market. They have great fruits and vegetables as well as baked goods, organic meats, sauces, cheeses etc. I took my nieces for a visit so they could see the farm animals outside the market, which they loved.

There are some great walks in Salmon Arm down by the water. The pier area overlooking the marina and the lake is nice with lots of benches to hang out on and enjoy a coffee or to sit and read. The park beside the pier has picnic tables and benches as well. From the park you can continue to walk along the path, but you have to walk through the parking lot to get to the path on the other side.

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Another nice place to walk around is Enderby. There is a river walk that is lovely and there are some nice cafes to stop in at, my favourite is Cliffs on the highway through town. Starting in Enderby you can float down the river in a tube, on an air mattress or in a raft, it looks like fun although I haven’t done them yet. But be warned, the river is slow moving and it can apparently take up to 12 hours to get to the next town so plan carefully where you want to get out of the river.

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Although Sicamous is a smaller centre it is a nice place to stay or at least worth a visit, especially for the public beach area. The beach has a swim area as well as a kids park and a path to walk along plus there is a public boat launch. If you like trains or boats it is a great spot to watch the trains going over the bridge or the boats going under the bridge. Sicamous is the houseboat capital of Canada and there is a regular stream of houseboats going in and out of the narrows past the beach. The houseboats range from very basic to quite fancy, loaded with slides, sea doos or even speedboats. All around the Shuswap are areas for the houseboats to dock for the day or the night, there are even floating stores and gas stations.

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Another nice walk is to the waterfall near Sicamous. There is a sign off highway 97A directing you to the parking area. Unfortunately the area was flooded and is currently under repair so instead of a continuous walk the walk is split into two, one down the creek and the other up to the waterfall area. It is a short, easy hike so almost anyone can do it (I went with two 3 year olds and they managed just fine), although there are some stairs on the waterfall side. Once you are at the waterfall it is very beautiful and peaceful.

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Despite the many lovely things to see, I spent most of my time on the beach near the cabin or on the boat on Mara Lake. It was wonderfully relaxing to float around the lake, taking a refreshing dip in the water when I got too hot. The lake isn’t the warmest lake as it is mountain-fed, but by mid-July it is usually nice and this year it was even quite warm because of the hot weather this summer. Plus, you can’t beat the scenery!

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Rocky Mountain Road Trip

When I was a child summer always involved a road trip through the mountains pulling the trailer to the interior of British Columbia to spend 2 weeks in the Okanagan or Shuswap enjoying the hot weather, mountains and lakes. I continue to take this trip every year, although now it is usually only as far as the Shuswap. No matter how many times I do this trip, the scenery still awes me.

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As I have for the past number of years, this year I am heading to Mara Lake in the Shuswap. Starting from Calgary on a clear day you can see the mountains in the distance the entire way. Fortunately for me I set out with the sun shining and only fluffy white clouds in the sky. The mountains look lovely from afar but it isn’t until you pass Kananaskis that you really appreciate their size. Once arriving in the mountains every turn offers another amazing view. One of my favourites is when you first see Castle Mountain.

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There are many places to stop along the way, Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and many other lakes, rivers and hiking trails. Sometimes I stop along the way but this time I didn’t stop until the spiral tunnels which is an historic site detailing how the railway route to navigate the steep passes approaching Golden changed over time. The information is interesting and the views stunning.

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Next stop was Golden. The town is surrounded by mountains and has a great ski hill, Kicking Horse, but I rarely stop there except for a rest stop and food.

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If I don’t stop for food in Golden I always stop in Revelstoke at Mainstreet Cafe for their baked goods, sandwiches or soup, or, if I’m really lucky and drive through on the right day, their amazing perogies and sausage. Sadly this time I wasn’t able to stop there, the timing didn’t work. So aside from a quick stop in Golden I drove straight through to Sicamous. But I still managed to snap a few pictures of beautiful Three Valley Gap on the way through.

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After a drive of approximately 45 minutes I arrived in Sicamous to end my road trip with a delicious dinner at Moose Mulligans pub on the Sicamous Narrows.

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Although I have been to many beautiful places in the world, the drive through the Canadian Rockies will always be on my list of the most amazing places to see in the world and an essential part of my summer.

Summer fun in Calgary

As many people do, I rarely take time to explore my own city. This summer I decided to remedy that. Yesterday I went to Glenmore Park here in Calgary for the first time in a long time with my two little nieces. It was absolutely beautiful! The day was sunny, there were sailboats out on the water and the kids were having a blast in the splash park.

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Taking time to appreciate the fabulous things to do in your own city is something everyone should do. A friend of mine who lives in London is great at doing this and I’m trying to learn from her. I’m often so interested in where my next trip will be and when that I don’t take the time to explore local attractions as much as I should. This thought inspired me to use this summer to make more of an effort to enjoy what Calgary has to offer, which has been made a lot easier this summer with the gorgeous weather we have been having!

Summer in Calgary would not be complete without the Stampede. It is a great event with things to do for everyone. The rodeo is of course the reason the Stampede exists (although I rarely go to it), but aside from the rodeo there are the rides and games on the midway, animal exhibitions, free concerts on the Coca Cola stage, all of the delightful, greasy, often bizarre food (an interesting addition this year was deep fried bugs! I did not try it), beer gardens and the BMO Centre with all of the exhibits. This year I wandered the BMO Centre, even bought a few things, walked the midway and spent a lovely couple hours at one of the beer gardens in the sun with a beer and mini donuts.

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I also tried the deep fried cookie dough, in my opinion a wonderful addition this year and although I probably gained 5 pounds eating it, it was delicious! The businesses in the city also have events in honour of Stampede. Pancake breakfasts and beer gardens are everywhere, there is even an app for smart phones to show where the best free pancake breakfasts are each day. One of my favourites is at Chinook Centre where this year the various businesses were competing for the best toppings. I had a delicious pancake covered in a concoction of M&Ms, oreos, whipped cream, syrup and a few blueberries to make it healthy.

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Aside from the Stampede, Calgary has many other great events in the summer. There are food festivals, music festivals and one of my favourites, Shakespeare in the Park (now renamed Shakespeare by the Bow) which takes place on Prince’s Island Park each year. Performances are at lunch time and in the evenings where drama students or recent graduates from around Alberta perform the works of Shakespeare, either traditionally or with a modern twist. It is a great way to spend a lunch hour or evening.  Picnics are available from the nearby River Cafe, or food can be purchased in the Eau Claire complex. Folk Fest is another highlight, which starts this weekend. Prince’s Island Park is set up for four days of music by artists from all over the world.  You can wander from stage to stage during the day and food trucks are set up for your dining pleasure. My personal favourites are the crepes and the perogies.  Last year I sampled the Saskatoon berry perogies, they were amazing. Sadly I won’t be able to make it this year but it is something I try to go to for at least one night of the festival.

For the first time in years I went to the Calgary zoo. I went with my two nieces and we had a great time.  There are lots of animals to see, although one of my niece’s favourite, the elephants, are no longer there. A highlight was the penguins, they are so fun to watch.

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Rafting down the Bow River or tubing down the Elbow River are two wonderfully relaxing things to do here in the summer. The river is usually cold and fast in July, it slows down and warms up in August, which is why I prefer rafting in August.

There are many parks and walking or cycling paths throughout Calgary. This summer I have been taking advantage of walks along the Bow and the Elbow Rivers, as well as along the Glenmore Reservoir. Unfortunately the floods last year destroyed many of the pathways and not all have been rebuilt. The path from Edworthy Park to Eau Claire is in good shape and is right along the river.

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This summer has been great for patios. My favourites are on Stephen Avenue and in Eau Claire. I recently discovered the rooftop patio at Joey’s in Chinook Centre, it is quite large, has a nice mix of shade and sun, and is full of flowers making it quite lovely. My local pub also has a nice patio although it is small and often full. The warm temperatures have been lasting into the evenings, which is unusual for Calgary, and I have been taking advantage of it as often as I can.

My next plan is a trip out to the mountains, another place I don’t go nearly enough even though one of the major benefits of living in Calgary is the proximity to the mountains.

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The Cotswolds – A Tour of the English Countryside

I have been to London and Bristol many times and even ventured into the countryside for days trips, but I have never really spent any time in the English countryside. On my trip to England in June I decided to change that. My first trip was touring the Cotswolds. The entire area is stunningly beautiful.  Green rolling hills, quaint villages and breathtaking views are just part of the charm of this area.

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The best way to tour the area is by renting a car as many of the villages are difficult, if not impossible, to reach by public transit. One benefit is you increase the adventure aspect of the trip as driving on the other side of the road on narrow, twisting country roads adds a whole new challenge to your trip!

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It also allows you to wander around with no real plan or schedule, which I believe is the best way to really appreciate the area as there are so many great places to stumble across that may not be in the guidebook or on your map.  Each day I planned to visit certain towns and then would stop along the way when I happened upon something else that looked interesting.  I didn’t see everything I wanted to see but that gives me a reason to go back! I decided to stay in one of the larger towns and use it as my base for day trips to the other villages to avoid having to pack and repack my stuff each night. I picked Cheltenham, one of the larger towns in the area, as there were more options to choose from for accommodation and restaurants. It is a nice town with a great pedestrian-only high street.  The architecture is mainly Georgian with wide streets and row houses. Similar to Bath it has mineral springs and became a spa town in the 1700s. Montpellier Walk is a highlight with statues along the storefronts, a park and Neptune’s Fountain.

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On my first day of touring I visited five towns (Upper/Lower Slaughter, Bourton-on-the-Water,  Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton-in-Marsh).  All of them were lovely but there were a few standouts. The first stop was Upper and Lower Slaughter, two of my favourite villages on my trip. These are the quintessential Cotswolds villages with golden honey coloured stone houses and views of green rolling hills. There is a short walk (20-30 minutes) along Warden’s Way between the two towns through woods with streams and fields filled with sheep.  I started in the parking lot in the center of Upper Slaughter and ended beside the old mill in Lower Slaughter.  The walk and the towns are amazingly beautiful. There is a nice shop full of all sorts of touristy and practical items in the old Mill in Lower Slaughter, definitely worth a visit. I couldn’t take enough photos of either town as they are so picturesque, especially walking along the brook in Lower Slaughter. I went in the church in each town and then just walked around enjoying the scenery.

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Another highlight was Bourton-on-the-Water. Such a beautiful spot. The river flows through the middle of town and there are shops and restaurants along both sides with a green space running right along the water.  Although the golden honey stone buildings throughout the centre of town are now shops and restaurants rather than private homes, it does not take away from the charm of the town. I had a wonderful cream tea at Small Talk Tea Rooms (I highly recommend a stop there if you have time) and spent the rest of my time looking at shops or walking along the river.

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Outside Stow-on-the-Wold I stopped at Chastleton House. It is a Jacobean property built by a wealthy wool merchant in the early 1600s which contains almost 400 years worth of items and furniture that was owned by a single family until 1991. It also has the first croquet law where the rules of croquet were codified in 1865, and you can take a few shots if you wish.

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I had dinner back in Cheltenham at a typical British pub, the Gloucester Old Spot, on the outskirts of town. The food was delicious and the atmosphere is amazing. They also have a great outdoor sitting area which would be perfect for a pint on a hot day.

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The next day was jammed packed as well.  This time my focus was more on the sights to see in the area rather than the towns themselves. First stop was Gloucester Cathedral.  It is a gorgeous Norman abbey church from 1100. The exterior is impressive, although it is hard to get it all in a picture as it is surrounded by buildings and a parking lot is along the front.  The interior is equally beautiful and it takes some time to see everything. For an extra few pounds you can go up to the Whispering Gallery where a whisper spoken at one end can be heard clearly by the person standing on the other end. One of my highlights was the cloisters which were used in the filming of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. I recommend buying the 1 pound map of the cloisters as it provides more information on the various pieces of history and movie trivia as you walk around.

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Next stop was Sudeley Castle near Winchcombe (a lovely town). It was the last home of Catherine Parr, sixth and last wife of Henry VIII. I highly recommend a stop here if you are in the area. The castle is amazing and the grounds are gorgeous and warrant a walk. There is also a small private church in the gardens. Part of the castle in the back is a ruin but the rest has been well maintained and is worth a look. My favourite parts were the stories of Henry the VIII’s wives, including samples of their typical dress. The exhibit discusses the various inhabitants of Sudeley castle and how the castle has changed through the years.  I had lunch at the cafe in the castle and the food was excellent. Overall it was an impressive place and a fabulous place to spend the morning.

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I then continued on to Chipping Camden and Hidcote Manor Garden. The drive to Chipping Camden is picturesque and warrants a few stops for photos. Chipping Camden is a charming village and worth a stop. I wandered up to the St. James wool church on a hill near the edge of town but unfortunately it was closed. From the outside the church is impressive and surrounded by a cemetery.

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Hidcote Manor Garden was another highlight of the trip. The gardens are separated into sections, each with a unique theme. You could wander around for hours exploring each section or take some time to enjoy the peacefulness on one of the many benches scattered throughout.  There is something for everyone, from flowers to shrubs to unique trees, and there are fountains and a brook flowing through as well.

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I finished my day with dinner in Stratford-upon-Avon. Although not technically part of the Cotswolds, it was so close to Hidcote that I couldn’t resist making a stop to Shakespeare’s birthplace. Unfortunately everything was closed when I arrived but I was still able to wander the streets and see Shakespeare’s home from outside. The Tudor buildings are fantastic, it is a great town to wander around for the scenery and architecture. I took a walk through town and stopped for dinner at Vintner. The restaurant has changed very little since the building was built in 1490, has great atmosphere, low wood beamed ceilings and dark wood floors, plus the food was delicious!  I ended with a stroll along the Avon river. This area is on my list for a return trip when everything is open so I can do it properly.

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I feel like I barely scratched the surface of the Cotswolds although I did fit a lot into my 3 days there. Guess I will just have to go back!

Tastes of Tuscany

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Sadly my twelve day tour of Tuscany is over. And I may need to buy new clothes after all of the fantastic food and wine I enjoyed while I was there! When I think of Tuscany I picture rolling hills, medieval towns and endless grapes vines and olive trees. The scenery is reason enough to come to Tuscany but the other main reason is the fabulous food and wine. I cannot think of a bad meal I had while I was there. From a simple caprese salad or pasta to multi-course meals (a special thanks to Alessandro of Casale del Cotone in San Gimignano for the amazing meal!), the food is fantastic.

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Italy is known for its wines and for good reason. Wine is produced all over Italy and throughout the Tuscan region. I went to two of these regions, Chianti and Montalcino where Brunello wines are produced. In Chianti I went on a wine tour which included two wineries and a visit to two medieval towns. I tasted many fabulous wines, including Chianti Classico and some reserved wines, plus the olive oil, truffle oil and balsamic vinegar produced at each respective winery.

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In Montalcino, I sampled various kinds of Brunello wines at the wine shop in the fortress. All of them were amazing! Brunello is becoming increasingly popular and winning awards. They can be more expensive than Chianti and started at about twenty euros a bottle at the fortress shop with many options to choose from.

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But you can also spend a lot more!

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The great thing about Tuscany is that you can find great food and wine at reasonable prices. Pasta at a small cafe can be inexpensive and delicious. Wine can be purchased in the grocery store for under a euro, and I have tried it and it wasn’t terrible, but not great either so I do recommend spending a bit more than that. Decent house wine can be found for six euros a litre, and a good bottle for nine or ten euros in many restaurants. Whatever your budget you can find a place to sample the wonderful food and wine of this region. Plus, the views cannot be beat!

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Faroe Islands – Small islands that pack a big punch

 

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A friend of mine in London was lucky enough to win a trip to the Faroe Islands and I was even luckier because she asked me to come along. I had to do some research as I had heard of the Faroes but really knew nothing about them. For such a small group of islands they have a big history. The Faroes are made up of 18 islands. They were originally part of Norway but are now part of Denmark. The language is similar to old Norse. Vikings colonised the Faroes in the ninth century but there is evidence of people even 300-500 years earlier than that. The islands were neutral in world war two but supplied fish to England which led to the Germans shooting their ships and bombing their ports. England eventually occupied the islands during the war and permitted the islands to use their own flag, an act that helped solidify the movement for more independence from Denmark. Greater independance was given to the Faroes after the war, and included not only their own flag but their own government and currency (although it is tied to the Danish kroner and they use Danish coins). Plus, the sweater made famous in the television show The Killing was made there. On top of all that, the islands are absolutely beautiful.

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We stayed in Torshavn, what an amazing city. It is small but there is a lot to see and do.

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As luck would have it we were there for the Faroe Islands cultural festival which meant most of the population of the Faroes came to Torshavn. The museums and stores were open late, people had access to government buildings, and there was live music and even a fashion show of cultural outfits. We went to the National Museum which covers Faroese culture and history over the years, saw the fashion show, visited a couple galleries, went through the town hall and spent most of our time walking around in the crowds people watching. We saw many people wearing “that sweater”, we were surprised by how many actually. The city itself is a mix of old and new. There are traditional turf roof houses mixed in with more modern buildings. The wharf area has the fortress on one side, government buildings in the middle and coffee shops along the far side.

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On our second day we went on a tour of the bird cliffs from Vestmanna with Tora tours. On the drive there we stopped at the old viking town of Kvivik with all traditional houses. The community has changed little over the years.

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On the boat ride out to the cliffs we passed huge salmon fishing traps. Fishing is still the main industry in the Faroes. At the bird cliffs there were many kinds of birds building nests but sadly I only saw one puffin, which surprised me as all of the tourist shops are filled with puffin items. The guide said that the puffin population has decreased in recent years, no one is sure why, and he was quite surprised we even saw any. Sadly I did not get a picture as it was small and the boat went by too fast.  We spent a lot of time on the water, also went into grottoes and saw the famous elephant rock. We also saw many many sheep, a big part of the Faroes economy, mainly for wool and wool products. Lamb is also a main dish in homes and restaurants but not exported. They are everywhere, even in the cliffs. To get them onto the cliffs to eat the grass the sheep are lifted by a pulley and placed there, often at a precarious angle, and they seem okay with it. Bizarre to see them up there, seems like they could fall at any time! Very interesting place and a great tour.

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The next day on another Tora tour we went to Sandhoy island. The ferry dropped us in Skopun, a beautiful little town which also has the largest post office box in the world. Our tour took us all over the island to the main villages, including Sandur, Husavik, and Skalavik. At one stop we found a knitting bomb, an entire massive rock was covered with knitting with different patterns surrounding the rock.

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Driving along the cliffs gave stunning views and the villages are picturesque. I could not take enough pictures, especially  in Husavik which is made up entirely of traditional houses. Near the beach we saw old bombs from world war 2, one was being used as a fire pit. The entire island was stunning and I highly recommend a trip there if you are in the Faroes.

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The tour ended back on Streymoy with a visit to St. Olav’s church in Kirkjubour. It was built in the twelfth century, approximately 1111, and is the oldest church on the islands.

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There is so much to see and do in this small Danish protectorate and I would recommend a trip there to anyone. I barely scratched the surface in my few days there and hope to make it back someday to see the rest. A few recommendations I have are:

Use the shuttle to and from the airport driven by Danny. He is fabulous and even gave us a mini tour on the way;

Go on a tour with Tora tours, very knowledgeable and lots of fun;

Don’t just stay in Torshavn, tour around the islands and see as much as you can;

Don’t let the weather scare you but bring layers, we had great weather but it can still change quickly; and

Spend as much time as you can, I wish I had been there longer, there is so much to see and even though the islands seem small it takes time to get from place to place.

 

Packing Tips

As I have traveled a fair amount many of my friends ask me for tips on what to pack, particularly for longer trips. I have to admit, I’m not always the best packer. I often over-pack and struggle reducing the number of clothes I want to bring. But, I have managed to come up with some packing tricks over the years, some to try and overcome my over-packing tendencies, some to help with long trips with limited packing space. Below are my top tips. I would love to hear from others if they have any tips to pass along.

1. Always pack enough underwear to have a clean pair a day. Underwear is small, easy to stuff into small corners of your suitcase or backpack and no matter how dirty the rest of your clothes are, if you have a clean pair of underwear you feel infinitely better. If your trip is many months and this isn’t feasible, bring as much as you can (I always bring at least one month worth) as you will have to do laundry either way.

2. Bring layers. This is important whether you are going on a trip with many different climates or even just to a tropical island. Evenings can always cool off, or some places are so air-conditioned that the 30 degrees outside doesn’t even matter, you still need a sweater. Layers also allow for multiple outfits and versatility with minimum clothes. Thinner layers pack better and you can pack more of them without sacrificing warmth.

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Biarritz in the South of France. The weather went from rain to hot and sunny throughout the day.

3. Gather up what you want to pack. Then cut it by about a third or more, especially if you are backpacking. Even though it doesn’t seem like much, or you can lift it after you have closed your suitcase, remember that you will have to carry it for longer than the 30 seconds you just lifted it. Whether backpacking from place to place or just carrying your suitcase up the many stairs at that adorable European hotel (that is much less adorable when carrying a huge suitcase up five flights of stairs where there is no elevator), it will feel much heavier when you are actually traveling. Plus most people need some room for souvenirs or shopping along the way.

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Stairs in Dubrovnik. Carrying a heavy backpack up the stairs in the heat is not fun!

4. Pack versatile items. For women, dresses are great as they can be used in multiple scenarios. For shoes only bring a couple pairs, shoes are heavy so a couple of comfortable styles that can be used with any outfit will be enough. Bring sweaters or cardigans, they can be used to layer, will keep you warm, and can change the look of an outfit for variety. Only bring one jacket, a nice raincoat can be used in multiple weather situations, is usually wind resistant and is lightweight and will fold down easily for packing.

5. Especially for long trips, only bring the essentials for toiletries. There are not many places in the world anymore where you cannot buy replacements along the way. Bring enough for the entire trip of key items like contact solution, toothbrush, special skin care, makeup etc. that you are less likely to find where you are going. For items like shampoo, toothpaste and similar things, bring smaller amounts as they can be easily replaced if you run out of them.

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6. Use an e-reader. Technology has made bringing books on vacation so much easier. I used to bring 3 to 5 books and then swap them out along the way, either with other travelers or at hostels. But books are heavy and cumbersome, e-readers mean you can take hundreds of books and only sacrifice a couple pounds of weight.

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7. If you are traveling with other people, share appliances like hair dryers, power converters and chargers, if possible. Everyone will then share the weight and space to carry these items.

Hope these tips help. Happy traveling!

 

Rome – Truly the Eternal City

I decided to include Tuscany as part of my next trip to Europe. As I was having a glass of wine and looking through pictures of previous trips to Italy to gain some inspiration, I came across pictures of my trips to Rome. I absolutely love Rome.  Walking around the city past some of the most iconic ruins in the world never gets old. There is something about standing beside the Colosseum or wandering through the Roman Forum, sitting on the Spanish steps eating gelato or standing in St. Peter’s that just cannot be beat.

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Aside from the main monuments, every corner you turn in Rome could lead to another ruin as there are constant discoveries around the city.

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Rome is also a great place to go as a single traveler. There is a lot to see, many other travelers to meet along the way as it is a popular spot on the tourist trail and lots of hostels or inexpensive hotels if you are on a budget. Plus most people in the touristy areas, main sites and restaurants speak English.  Rome is very walkable and easy to get around. Most of the main sites can be seen in one day (Colloseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, Victorio Emanuele II monument, Piazza del Popolo and Trevi Fountain) and then another half day for Vatican City if you are in a hurry.  A more leisurely pace would still allow you to see everything in 2-3 full days. For single female travelers, the rumours about Italian men are generally true, they are flirtatious and persistent. However, if you aren’t interested I found a strong “no thanks” or simply walk away and although they may call out to you, they won’t follow you. As long as I was in the tourist areas I felt completely safe, even at night, and during the daytime I felt safe everywhere I went. As always, simply pay attention to your surroundings and you will be fine.

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Pantheon

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Roman Forum

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Spanish Steps

Of course another one of the great things to do in Rome is to enjoy the food and wine. The restaurants around Piazza Navona are quite good and sitting outside offers a great view of the piazza to take in the view and people watch.  However, my best meals in Rome have been when I’ve found a smaller restaurant along one of the winding streets or when I’ve ventured away from the main tourist areas.  You don’t need to spend a lot of money to get a fantastic meal which makes it easy to enjoy the Italian cuisine on any budget. Grabbing some gelato is a must and so far I have not found a bad gelato place (although it is possible they exist, but I doubt it). You can find every flavour imaginable and the sizes range from small to gigantic. My personal favourite on a hot day is lemon or stracciatella.

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

There are some great day trips from Rome. My favourites are Ostia Antica and Tivoli. Both are a short trip on public transit from Rome. To get to Ostia Antica take Metro Line B to Piramide or Magliana and then take the Ostia Lido train. To get to Tivoli take a local bus from Rome and then once in Tivoli there is a bus to Hadrian’s Villa.  Ostia Antica is the ruins of an ancient Roman port, similar to the ruins found at Pompeii but not covered in lava and with fewer people. You can walk through the ruins and take your time as there are no crowds.

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Tivoli is a charming sixteenth century town where you can visit the Villa d’Este which contains beautiful gardens and fountains. From Tivoli you can take a short bus to Hadrian’s Villa built in the second century by Emperor Hadrian. It is an excellent representation of Roman architecture with plenty of ruins to explore and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Tivoli Villa D'Este

Tivoli – Villa D’Este

Fountains - Villa D'Este

Fountains – Villa D’Este

Hadrian's Villa

Hadrian’s Villa

Hadrian's Villa 2

Hadrian’s Villa

Whether you are a foodie, love history or simply want to say you have visited Rome, you won’t be disappointed.

Vatican at Night

View over the Tiber River of the Vatican at Night

Dreaming of Greece

As I sat in Calgary for the first week of May and watched the snow falling all I wanted to do was escape to sun, sand and water.  I started looking through old pictures for inspiration and was drawn to my Greece pictures. The Greek islands are some of the most beautiful places in the world with breathtaking sites, beautiful scenery and a unique Mediterranean landscape. Symi island below is a great day trip from Rhodes.

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View over Santorini

There are also so many islands to see that no matter how many times you go back you will find something new.  Plus if you are a history buff there are few better places in the world to feel like you are walking through history at every turn, even on the smaller islands, as the old roads, buildings and ruins remain.

Skiathos

Skiathos

If you are planning a trip to Greece, I found this great website with lots of information to plan a trip to any of the islands. There are great tips on tours, places to stay and unique features of each of the islands.  The cab tour of Rhodes was a great recommendation and it was a highlight of my trip.

View in Rhodes

The tour was all day and the driver took us around Rhodes from Rhodes City to Lindos.

As the islands are so close together, it is easy to take a ferry from island to island, or do a cruise of the area so you can see different places even with limited time. My first trip to Greece was on a cruise and it allowed me to see the sites of Athens and visit two of the islands in only a week.

Athens ruins

View from Temple of Zeus towards Parthenon.

Mykonos

Mykonos

On my other trips to Greece I focused on one island area. In Rhodes I stay in Rhodes City, explored the entire island and then did day trips to islands that were close by.  In Skiathos I spent the entire time in Skiathos relaxing at a resort with friends and touring the town.

Skiathos

Regardless of if you are looking for an active vacation or relaxation by the beach, Greece is a great place to vacation, especially as an escape from the cold and grey.  If only I was heading there tomorrow! Guess it will have to be only daydreams for now.

Iceland – Glaciers, Geysirs, Horses, Coasts and Lava Rock

I recently spent 6 days in Iceland, what a beautiful country. Weather in Iceland is unpredictable, at least at this time of year. Within an hour I experienced snow, sun, rain, snow, sun and more rain. Bring layers and definitely a rain coat/windbreaker. The wind can be brutal, on the South coast it was so strong I could barely walk when it was gusting. It is also quite chilly with the wind but without the wind it was 7-10 degrees and warm in the sun. The landscape is unique, like nothing I have seen before. The entire island was created by volcanic eruptions and is covered in lava. Moss then grows on the lava and eventually breaks it down into rocks and eventually soil. Many areas of the country appear desolate with just lava rocks and moss, often surrounded by hills and mountains. It is strangely beautiful. The lava also has led to the creation of black sand beaches, black cliffs and lava formations which rise out of the ocean. Many of the volcanoes on the island are still active and new eruptions are expected to occur. Fortunately none occurred while we were there!

Lava Rocks Iceland

The rest of the landscape is made up of mountains, hills, volcanoes, glaciers, cliffs, ocean and a scattering of small towns, fishing villages and farms.

Iceland Town

Reykjavik is the main city and approximately 200,000 people live there. The entire population of Iceland is only about 320,000 people who are scattered throughout the rest of the country. Reykjavik is a lovely city although much newer than I expected. As Iceland was so isolated for so many years, the city did not develop until much later than the rest of Europe. There are many colourful buildings everywhere, many made of corrugated metal which is unique in Iceland. Great views can be found at the top of the Hallfrimskirkja church and the 871 +/- 2 museum (yes, that is what the museum is actually called as Iceland was settled in 871, plus or minus 2 years) has a really interesting overview about the original settlement of Iceland by the Norwegian Vikings. It is a great walking city with lots of cafes (there is a fabulous cafe culture there) and great restaurants. One of my favourites was Tapas where you can enjoy an Icelandic feast of traditional foods, including puffin, fish and even whale.

View of Reykjavik

Lake in Reykjavik

There is so much to see and do, I barely scratched the surface. On the first day I arrived I went on a horseback ride on the famous Icelandic horse with Islenski Hesturrin tour company. The horse is unique to Iceland and has certain special features not found in other horses. Most notably is that the Icelandic horse has 5 gaits where most other horses only have 3 gaits. The most famous of the 5 gaits is the Tolt which is a smooth gait that feels like you are rocking instead of bouncing like a standard trot. The fifth gait is the Pace which is smooth and fast. These horses are also smaller, more the size of a pony, have shaggier hair and a friendly disposition. The Icelandic horses in Iceland are protected from exposure to other horses as once a horse leaves Iceland it is never allowed to return.

Icelandic Horse

Next sight-seeing adventure was a tour of the Golden Circle which includes a visit to Geysir, the Gullfoss waterfalls, Fontana hot springs, one of the places where the tectonic plates of Europe and North America meet in Iceland and Thingvellir. Geysir is one of the most famous sites in Iceland. The original Geysir was blocked by tourists throwing rocks into it but there is a current Geysir that blows every few minutes high into the air. All around the area are other bubbling steaming hot pools amongst the lava formations.

Geysir

The Gullfoss waterfalls are gorgeous. There is a walkway to the bottom down a set of stairs where you can walk close to the falls. You can also walk across the top to look over the falls.

Gullfoss

Thingvellir is an old site where the assembly was held, the Law Council convened and laws of old Iceland were recited starting during the Viking age. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Thingvellir

When we stopped at Fontana hot spring and spa, prior to entering the pools, there was a demonstration of how bread was traditionally made in the area using the natural heat created by the hot springs under the sand. The bread mixture was put into a pot, covered by sand and left to cook. Our tour group sampled the bread cooked the day before and it was hot and delicious. At the Fontana hot pools you can go into the hot springs or saunas all heated by the natural hot spring under the site. One of the pools is still natural and algae even grows in the pool. The other pools are man-made but still fed by the natural springs. One word of warning, before entering the pools you have to shower naked, without your bathing suit, in an open area (although men and women are in separate change rooms) to fully wash yourself. Not something we are used to in North America!

Breadmaking

The continental tectonic plates of North America and Europe meet in Iceland. They are separating by approximately 2 cm per year and there are places in Iceland you can see where they have hit and separated. It also means you can find many places where you are in two continents at once, a unique experience in the world.

Tectonic plates

The next tour I went on was the Snaefellsnes peninsula with Iceland Horizon. What an amazing tour! The tour guide David is from the UK but has lived in Iceland for a number of years and was very knowledgeable. Snaefellsnes is stunning, we drove along the coast and stopped at multiple beaches, towns and coastal walks. Below are some pictures of what we saw.

Black sand beach Snaefellsnes

Church at Snaefellsnes

The final tour was of the South coast. As mentioned above the wind on the South coast is strong and gusts so hard that walking becomes more difficult and driving, especially if it is icy, is tough if not impossible. But it is definitely worth visiting as there is so much to see and as with the rest of Iceland, it is beautiful. We stopped at Vik where we also visited Reynisdrangur beach with tall sea rocks rising out of the ocean, then continued on to another beaches with numerous caves, then on to waterfalls (Skogafoss) where you can climb to the top of the waterfall up 492 steps, fed horses from a local farm, and Seljalandsfoss waterfall where you can walk behind the waterfall (you get a bit wet).

Farm by Eyjafjallajokull

Farm by Eyjafjallajokull volcano

Solheimajokull glacier

Solheimajokull glacier

Skogafoss Waterfall

Skogafoss waterfall

The final famous spot I visited was the Blue Lagoon. It is on the way to the airport so I stopped there before catching my flight back to Canada. There is an airport transfer bus that stops there and the lagoon has a luggage storage area located at the entrance. I recommend spending at least 2 hours there. It is a picturesque area and the colour of the water is amazing. Although it is a man-made pool it is still fed by the local hot springs. As with Fontana, you do need to shower without your bathing suit on before entering the pools. When you buy your ticket you are given a wristband which has a chip inserted and is used to lock your locker and pay for any drinks you purchase at the bar in the pool. You can also use the saunas or get a massage. Around the pool are containers of the white or black mineral mud to use to give yourself a facial. The mud can then be washed off in the pool as it is the same minerals already in the lagoon. It is a nice relaxing stop before the long flight home.

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